Let’s face it, it’s a beautiful fantasy – the kids in their pajamas opening the big box, and out pops a fuzzy puppy with a big red bow. Awww, how adorable! But, this isn’t Hollywood, and puppies aren’t props. So let’s explore the idea from a more practical viewpoint and see if a Christmas puppy really makes sense for you and your kids.
How old are your kids? Young puppies and young children are not always a match made in heaven. Kids squeal and run. Puppies bite and jump. Completely normal behavior for both, but it can be a challenge to meet the needs of both human and canine babies in a way that keeps everyone safe and happy. I believe it is best to wait until children are at least 6 years old before trying to raise a young puppy. Despite your best intentions and efforts, some dogs are not really fond of small children; even a puppy raised with kids may not enjoy them. So what is a reasonable compromise solution? Find an adult dog that is accustomed to and loves younger children – a smart choice with a better chance for harmonious success. (more…)
You’ve done your homework, decided the time is right to get a puppy, and chosen the right puppy. Now it’s time to prepare yourself and your house for the new arrival. Yup, just like you would get ready for your new baby!
Prepare a safe place for your puppy.You’ll likely want a crate for sleeping and an exercise pen (X-pen) or baby gate to create a safe containment area on an easy clean surface. I suggest having the crate in your bedroom at night and the pen near your main living area. If you don’t have an appropriate floor surface available, get a remnant of vinyl flooring from your home center or carpet store to use under your X-pen. You will use the X-pen as a long-term confinement area for times when you can’t watch the puppy for a few hours. You can use the crate at night, and for short periods like taking a shower or talking on the phone. Rid yourself of the mindset that a crate is punishment; by using it properly, it will instead become your dog’s favorite safe haven. (more…)
The big day is finally here! You want to be prepared and get off to a good start right away with your new puppy. Here are some tips to make things go smoothly.
The ride home – If you have a helper to drive, the drive isn’t too long, and the puppy is tired and/or calm you can try holding the puppy on your lap. Otherwise you’ll need a crate or at least a cardboard box to contain the puppy. If you use a box, put some plastic under it just in case. Place a thick towel at the bottom of the crate or box to give the pup good footing and to catch any accidents. If your trip will take more than an hour, plan to make a potty stop (or two) along the way. I would avoid highway rest areas as they are frequented by lots of dogs and your puppy doesn’t have full immunity yet. If possible, opt for a quiet grassy area instead. Be sure your puppy is wearing identification and has a secure collar or harness. (more…)
I’ve heard many answers to this question… In the garage, in his dog house, in the laundry room, on the couch, in my bed, in a crate, on a dog bed, and even anywhere he wants. What’s the best answer? Near his human
Dogs are social animals and they like the feeling of belonging to a group and having companionship. Many, given the choice, will follow their humans from room to room all day. So it only makes sense that they would want to be near us when we sleep. There is safety in numbers for them so sleeping near their “leader(s)” helps them feel safe so they can rest more easily. When they sleep alone they are often alert to subtle shifts and sounds, needing to be aware of potential dangers. Some dogs are, by nature, very vigilant. So being able to really go “off duty” and get a good night’s sleep is important for them. Puppies that sleep near their people usually sleep through the night (and without potty accidents) sooner than pups confined away from their humans. Also, having your dog sleep near you enhances bonding… even while you’re sound asleep. (more…)
The dog park can be a great thing for your dog(s). But it can also be very risky. Here are some tips on getting the most out of the dog park and minimizing the risks.
1 – Know your dog! If your dog is afraid of other dogs and/or people, the dog park is not the place to take him to “get over it”. Hire a trainer to help you with his issues and evaluate when and if he’s ready for the dog park. The same goes double for dogs that are aggressive with other dogs. It’s unfair to the other park users to let your “bully” rule the park. Not to mention the risks you face should your dog hurt another dog or person.
Also, what type of play style does your dog have? Is he a wrestler, a chaser, or more of cocktail party mingler? Help your dog find dogs that have compatible styles. You might even try to schedule your visits when you know those dogs will be there… and avoid going when incompatible dogs frequent the park. (more…)
I consider myself to be a positive trainer, but these days it seems like a lot of people who aren’t still say they are. The term came about as an alternative to the “traditional” or military style training, which relied upon force and “corrections” as a major component. At the time, positive trainers were shifting away from the use of force and focusing on rewarding “good” behavior instead of punishing “bad” behavior. But I guess no one wanted to refer to themselves as a “negative trainer” Reminds me of my husband’s comments about political candidates. They all say they are “tough on crime” because no one would vote for someone who said they were soft on crime, now would they? Traditional trainers that use food and toy rewards may call themselves “positive”. Some call themselves “motivational” trainers. These days there are folks that refer to themselves as “balanced” trainers. But what does all this mean to you, a pet owner, when trying to choose the best trainer for your dog? (more…)
I confess, I’m not a Cesar Milan fan. I get tired of explaining why I’m not a “dog whisperer” and generally prefer to avoid the topic. But when I heard an ad for Cesar’s new “Mastering Leadership” DVD on my favorite radio station I felt my blood pressure rise. The thought that thousands of people will be using his methods on their dogs made the hair on the back of my neck stand up. Does this mean I don’t think “leadership” is important? Absolutely not! It’s just how we get there that makes a big difference to me. (more…)
We all want our dogs to be forever healthy. But things happen and sometimes we need to give our dogs pills. While many dogs will just eat them with their food or wrapped in a treat, that is not always and option, especially for dogs that are suspicious and find a way to spit out the pills. Here are some tips on how to teach your dog to accept pills and reduce the stress for all concerned. (more…)
Years ago we called it ‘paper training’. While some people still use paper, we now have a variety of absorbant pads with a moisture proof backing. They go by a variety of names including ‘potty pads’ and ‘wee wee pads’. The purpose is the same, a designated toilet spot for your dog. The potty pads are superior to paper (usually newspaper) for several reasons; they are more absorbent, won’t get newsprint on your dog’s feet, and you won’t have your pup peeing on the Sunday edition you left on the floor by accident.
There are situations where having your dog trained to use a potty pad can be a good thing: You live in an urban area with regular inclement weather. You have health or mobility issues that make regular trips outdoors difficult. You live in a high rise apartment so a trip to the street takes several minutes. You travel frequently with your dog. You work odd hours and aren’t always able to let your dog out at reasonable intervals. (more…)
Head halters are still a useful and humane tool for teaching loose leash walking. As with any of the tools we use (including leash and collar), they are a means to an end and should not be considered as a replacement for proper training. You still have to do the work!
Gentle Leader with double-ended leash
There is no “magic” product out there to solve your problems. They are most often considered for dogs who have developed a pulling or lunging problem that makes them difficult or unsafe to walk (as in the case of the 100# owner and the 80# dog). They allow the owner to turn the head and redirect the dog’s attention. They are extremely useful in dealing with dogs with aggression issues. They are not a muzzle, although many people will assume so if your dog is wearing one… consider it an opportunity to educate the public (more…)
You’ve done your homework, decided the time is right to get a puppy, and 
The big day is finally here! You want to be prepared and get off to a good start right away with your new puppy. Here are some tips to make things go smoothly.
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